Central Taiwan

Central Taiwan, roughly covering the region from Miaoli to Chiayi, west of the Central Mountain range, boasts the most varied terrain on the island. From the summit of snow-capped Yu Shan, the Jade Mountain, the landscape drops 3,952 meters to the harbor at Taichung, which is the urban center of central Taiwan. The pace and pressure of modern metropolitan Taipei are replaced here by a quieter, slower life. It is Taiwan’s third largest city with a population of around 100,000 people. Taichung enjoys the islands best year round climate, without the seasonal extremes of heat and cold that mark the north and south. Although Taichung is neither as scenic nor diverse as Taipei, it has numerous points of interest.

The Martyr’s Shrine, built in 1970 has design that provides a superb example of the harmony and balance inherent in classical Chinese architecture. Protected by two bronze guardian lions, the Martyr’s Shrine commemorates 72 Chinese beheaded in 1911 by the tottering Manchu court, on the eve of the Republic’s revolution.

Next to Martyrs’ Shrine is Taichung’s tranquil Kong Miao or Confusion Temple.
In this shrine, the eaves rather than flaring audaciously heavenward, curve gently downward, cleaving close to the earth. On the altar of the shrine is a simple black-stone stele with the name of Confucius engraved in gold on its smooth, otherwise unadorned surface. Every year on 28 September, this temple hosts a colorful spectacle of ancient rituals, archaic costumes and 2,000 year old music played on antique instruments.

North and east of Taichung, is the Central Cross-Island Highway that stretches about 200 kilometers in distance. The Chinese claim no visit to Taiwan is complete without a trip across this road, for it displays with striking beauty the full gamut of the island’s rainbow hues, lush tropical valleys and snow capped peaks, alpine forest and rocky ravines, steamy hot springs and roaring rivers, mountain lakes and the shimmering sea. The highway was completed in 1960, at the cost of 450 lives. Ten thousand laborers, most of them retired servicemen who had fought in the mainland in the 1940s, struggled four years to complete the road.

Kukuan or Valley Pass, is a hot springs resort lying at about 1,000 meters above sea level. Kukuan features numerous hotels and inns and restaurants and handicraft shops. Kukuan’s major attraction is the two kilometers walk through Dragon Valley. The walk begins with the crossing of a teak suspension bridge over the river. The path weaves past a cave-pen of Himalayan black bears, a house-sized cage of acrobatic monkeys, a pair of dignified Manchurian cranes, and numerous other denizens of an outdoor zoo.
It proceeds through sculpted shrubbery and brilliant bougainvillea to the Mahjong Terrace of the Eight Immortals, high atop a crag overlooking the river, and the Goddess of Mercy Grotto, a shrine set in a bend in the gorge. A serene white ceramic statue of Kuan Yin rests within. Around the bend, there is the impressive 75 meter high Dragon Valley Fall cascades into the stream . Viewing terraces are staggered 30 meters up the side of the gorge opposite the falls. This is the most easily accessible of Taiwan’s major waterfalls. En route back to the village, the trail forks left to the riverside, where there is a pen full of proud peacocks and other large gaily-feathered birds. Nearby is a Chinese garden grotto with pools, fountains and mountains as its backdrop.

Hohuan Shah, the Mountain of Harmonious Happiness, looming 3,420 meter above the sea level is Taiwan’s only winter ski resort. For about two months each year, from January to March, heavy snowfall turns the mountain white. A 400 meters long lift carries skiers up the slopes. Even in summer, the heat rarely rise above 15 degree Celsius. Hiking, mountain climbing and hot springs bathing are the most attractive recreational activities in the summer time.

Wushe which means Foggy Community is renowned for its crystal clear alpine air, as well as the profusion of wild cherry and plum blossoms that shower the village in early spring. Far below, the green mirror of Wushe Reservoir is surrounded by abrupt mountain escarpments. Wushe made its mark on Taiwan history in 1930, when minority-group tribes residing there staged a bloody but futile uprising against Japanese occupation forces. The Japanese, with modern weaponry, killed 1,000 of the tribesmen but not before losing 200 of their own. A memorial plaque in the village commemorates the massacre.

Lushan Hot Spring snuggles in the valley below Wushe. Lushan village straddles a turbulent stream traversed by a suspension footbridge. Hot-spring, inns lie along the banks of both sides of the river. On the far side of the river, just beyond the last hotel, a trail leads past a pair of waterfalls to the smoldering source of the spa’s hot water. The simmering puddles that have formed in crevices around the source are hot enough to boil eggs, and many visitors do just that. The water lends flavor and vital minerals to the eggs, making them highly nutritional. Lushan village is famous for its tea, medicinal herbs, petrified - wood canes, wild-blossom honey and dried mushrooms.

Taiwan‘s most enduring popular honeymoon resort is Sun Moon Lake, 750 meters above sea level. Entirely enfolded in mountains and dense tropical foliage, the lakes takes the shape of a round sun when viewed from some of the surrounding hills, or of a crescent moon when seen from other heights. Under the sunny skies, the dreamy landscape of turquoise waters, jade-green hills and drifting mountain mist lends itself well to the moods and passions of honeymooners and other amorous couples flocking to the lake’s shores.

High on a hill near the southern end of the lake, the Hsuanchuang Temple houses some of China’s most precious Buddhist relics. This temple was built for safekeeping and preservation of the relics. Atop a hill beyond the Hsuanchuang Temple stands the ornate, nine-tiered Tzuen, the Pagoda of Filial Virtue. It was built by Chiang Kaishek in memory of his mother, and hence the name. An uphill walk through cool glades of bamboo, fern, maple and pine leads to the foot of the pagoda. From here, there are spectacular views of the entire lake and surrounding scenery.

Hsitou Bamboo Forest, a 2,485 hectare forest research station, operated by the National Taiwan University produces forty percent of Taiwan’s supply of raw bamboo and bamboo products. There are many varities of bamboo in this green forest, along with vast tracts of cypress, cedar and pine. The station cultivates and distributes more than one million tree shoots annually for Taiwan’s extensive reforestation projects. Visitors to Hsitou can stroll along paved footpaths shaded by leafy canopies. At 1,150 meters above sea level, this is a favorite spot for hikers and campers.

South of Taichung, in a typical country town called Changhua, lies an impressive Buddha image atop Pakua Shan, Eight Trigram Mountain. This rather sterile-sounding name drives from the combination of broken and unbroken sticks used by the Chinese in traditional divining procedures. The 30 meter high concrete Buddha image mediates serenely atop a five meter tall lotus dias. The concrete Buddha itself is hollow, with life size dioramas of Sakyamuni Buddha’s life built into the walls. Behind the Buddha image is a palatial three-story temple, one of the largest in Taiwan. Within it is an impressive collection of gilded icons. In the shrine hall on the top floor is a large golden statue of the Buddha, attended by two disciples. Beside this main hall are a traditional octagonal pagoda of eight tiers and an ornate three - tiered pavilion of classical design.

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